BEWARE! The
following blogs about the Pyrenees are extra long, full of pictures of amazing
scenery and contain an extra amount of panoramas. You’ve been warned!
Last night
we realised how tired we were after that 7 hour walk and not having enough
sleep in the last few nights (it has been REALLY hot in Barcelona recently)
these were taking their toll on us. This is why we decided that today we´re
going to do a short, 3.5-4 hours walk. After reading through many options we
decided to go with the Speaker’s Way, the Faja Racón. It started similarly to
yesterday´s walk, a 400m ascent right at the start, then a walk along the
mountain, then down. Sounded simple. Check out the route map if you´re
interested.
We started
off very early (again) and the clouds were still sitting around Torla.
We took the
20 minute bus journey again. After getting off the bus we started our walk. It was
still early and the clouds were sitting on the top of the pine trees.
We first
walked through a birch forest. The trees were tall and white and the forest had
a silvery-green colour.
We walked
through two gorges with a fast flowing river on our right and the path was
lined with magnificent rock walls.
The ascent
was gentler today and the path followed a zigzag line. As it was still early
the forest was still a bit misty and eerie. It looked like a fairy tale land
where as soon as you turn away the fairies pop out from behind the trees and
rocks.
Our path
lead right next to the Cotatuero waterfall which with its 200m height makes it one
of Spain’s longest waterfalls. The water comes so fast that when you stand in front of it on the bridge it feels like it's forcing you back and you have to take a step back.
By the time
we got to the top of the ascent through the pine forest we reached the line of the sunshine, too.
From here we
were walking on the side of the mountain that is located exactly opposite to
yesterday’s walk. The path is basically a protruding terrace on a rock wall
meaning it is narrow, on your right there’s a steep wall, and on your left
there’s a 400m drop. It’s an amazing
experience to walk here.
We walked
around the first rock wall, passed a few waterfalls then we got to a place
where we simply just had to stop and sit down.
The
landscape was enormous. Behind, next to us and in front of us were stripy,
foresty rock walls so enormous that my mind needed a few minutes to comprehend
the size of them. Right at the tip of my shoes a huge drop and under us waaaay
below the Ordesa Valley with the Azaras river. Finally we found the perfect place to sit down. We sat there for a while and soaked in this amazing atmosphere. There was silence around us, the sun shone but wasn´t hot and this was the view we were looking at.
After a few
minutes we got up and started walking again. We walked around a rock wall that
jutted out a bit and got into another lovely part. The scale of the mountains
around us was just mindblowing. On the wall all around us there was so much life, bees whizzed right next to us left and right, we had to dodge the butterflies there were so many of them, greenery and flowers everywhere! It felt like they are saying ´get out of the way, human!´.
We had to
cross this waterfall that coloured the rock dark.
Where is the
road? When we finally found the path we saw a few cairns on the path. We
quickly built another one on the start so that others coming after us won´t
have to look for it.
We found a
great spot to have lunch at. We also spotted this waterfall. It starts falling
but it stops halfway as the water becomes a mist.
At last we
got to the point where the path turns off the rock terrace and we started the
long way down. It was steep and didn’t want to end! In hindsight I would’ve
done this walk the other way around as going down was hard on the knees and if
we swapped the end and the beginning it would’ve been easier for us.
When we got
down we decided that we are still full of energy, the sun is shining and we
have the whole afternoon in front of us so instead of taking the bus we walked
back to Torla.
We saw the
windy road the bus has to take down.
On the way
back we spotted Torla.
Back in the
village.
Instead of
an easy day we managed to do a 6.5 hours walk again! Looks like we really
cannot take it easy! When we got back to the village it was market day. We
walked in the market, got a cold drink, sat down and almost fell asleep! We
were so tired!
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