The Caves of Granada in Sacromonte

During the visit of our Spanish friends we finally had a chance to visit the Caves up in the Sacromonte district which is right opposite the Alhambra on the other side of the Diver Darro. Meritxell had already been there once so luckily she knew the way.

The history of the caves started after the Reconquista. The people who populated this area were the gypsies who arrived together with the Christian army to take back Granada, the last stronghold of the Muslims in Spain. After the battle this group decided to stay here and together with the expelled Jews they lived here on the margin of society.

When we got to the Interpretation Centre in the Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte, we paid the 5 euro entry fee (which I personally think is expensive) and walked in. Every cave is set up differently and in front of all of them there’s a little explanation in Spanish and English. You can go in and touch the displayed items. Here’s a little selection of photos of them.

Even though looking into the caves was interesting the view from the side of the museum is definitely worth the trek up. There in front of your eyes are the two sides of the River Darro. The distance between them is not much more than 500m but they are still a world apart. The Alhambra, the ultimate wealth of kings and queens is directly opposite the caves of the gypsies and other expelled groups. A huge difference in terms of living areas, statuses and finance. Even the vegetation seem to reflect the same sentiment as on the side of the Kings it’s all green and lush, while on the side of Sacromonte it’s bare, only cacti grows there. An interesting contrast.

You can find this Museum on Barranco de los Negros, Sacromonte, walk all the way to the end of the road. You can read about the opening hours and other information on the Museum’s website here.

Finally, if you are interested in the gypsies, have a look at one of Granada´s famous poet´s, Federico García Lorca´s book called Gypsy Ballads.

Palacio de la Madraza

We came across this interesting looking building during one of our wanderings in the center of Granada. I wrote down the name and vowed to myself that one day I will go inside to see it. A few weeks later the moment arrived and after paying the 2 euro entry we were given a short tour inside.

The Madraza Palace was founded by a Muslim monarch in the middle of the 14^th century and originally served as a university. Here the students could learn subjects such as theology, law, philosophy or rhetoric. Nowadays it belongs to the University of Granada.

The façade of the building that caught my attention is the result of later decoration, after the Reconquista in 1513. The Catholic Kings liked the style of mujedar (mix of Arabic and Christian motives) and this building is one of the nicest examples of that. From the outside it looks like the walls are covered with perfectly cut elegant marble blocks however when you have a closer look you will see that it’s all painted on! This was a way of saving money. I don’t remember ever seeing anything like that before.

As we step in we can see a square that used to be a pool in the main hall. The whole building was built around that and even though later the Christians filled it up it is still the center of the house.

The mihrab or oratory is just as impressively decorated as any of the Alhambra’s rooms. As it was completely restored we could finally see the colours as well, which are missing in Granada’s most popular monument. We only had a few minutes to admire it. Even though by then we had visited the Mesquita de Córdoba and seen the Alhambra inside and out many times this much beauty still took our breath away. 

We were taken up the stairs. This was the wall and the ceiling of the landing.

When we got up to the first floor we could look down on the pool from the platform that ran around the now-covered courtyard. Our guide pointed out a set of painted windows on the walls. She said that during the day when the sun is in a certain position they truly look like they are real.

The most beautiful room of the Palace. The ceiling is absolutely stunning. It was made in Arabic style but on the side you can see small cherubs and Christian writing.

This is such a lovely place to visit. You get to see it with a guide who speaks English and without the throngs of tourists. If you’re interested in this sort of thing the Palacio de la Madraza will be a real treasure for you. You can find it on the short Calle Oficios, it's impossible to miss.

Alhambra - the Night Visit (saving the best for last)

As you can probably see from my blogs we visited this unique monument's every corner at every available time possible. Although opinions seem to differ we think that all the beauty the Palaces can show you during the day come alive during the night.

At this time your visit is limited to the three Palaces but in my opinion these are the best places in the palace complex so you won't lose out on anything. The rooms and the walls are (let's admit it, sometimes badly) lit up and this puts the decoration in a whole new perspective. Everything becomes softer, more magical and suddenly it is easy to imagine sultans and their harems playing in the Court of the Lions. In the pools that reflect back the buildings instead of the sun and the clouds you will see the moon shining.

It's a completely different experience to the day time visit, albeit much shorter (only 90 minutes). It's worth going there early and being the first ones to be let in as for a few seconds you can have the whole place for yourself. We used every minute of our time wandering around the rooms, separating then meeting again until the guards came and promptly showed us out.

Finally, I can't possibly finish my blogs about the Alhambra without mentioning the American writer Washington Irwing. His visit to the monument inspired him to write a collection of stories and essays which were first printed in the 1830's. This little booklet, The Tales of the Alhambra, played an important part in making the world aware of one of the most beautiful Moorish architecture of all times.