During
the visit of our Spanish friends we finally had a chance to visit the Caves up
in the Sacromonte district which is right opposite the Alhambra on the other side
of the Diver Darro. Meritxell had already been there once so luckily she knew
the way.
The
history of the caves started after the Reconquista. The people who populated
this area were the gypsies who arrived together with the Christian army to take
back Granada, the last stronghold of the Muslims in Spain. After the battle
this group decided to stay here and together with the expelled Jews they lived
here on the margin of society.
When
we got to the Interpretation Centre in the Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte, we paid the 5 euro entry fee (which I
personally think is expensive) and walked in. Every cave is set up differently
and in front of all of them there’s a little explanation in Spanish and
English. You can go in and touch the displayed items. Here’s a little selection
of photos of them.
Even
though looking into the caves was interesting the view from the side of the museum is definitely worth the trek up. There
in front of your eyes are the two sides of the River Darro. The distance
between them is not much more than 500m but they are still a world apart. The
Alhambra, the ultimate wealth of kings and queens is directly opposite the
caves of the gypsies and other expelled groups. A huge difference in terms of
living areas, statuses and finance. Even the vegetation seem to reflect the
same sentiment as on the side of the Kings it’s all green and lush, while on
the side of Sacromonte it’s bare, only cacti grows there. An interesting
contrast.
You
can find this Museum on Barranco de los Negros, Sacromonte, walk all the way to
the end of the road. You can read about the opening hours and other information
on the Museum’s website here.
Finally,
if you are interested in the gypsies, have a look at one of Granada´s famous
poet´s, Federico García Lorca´s book called Gypsy Ballads.
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