As with every
place we go to I attended a free tour here in Granada, too. Before I launch
into it, however, let me tell you a little history of the town. Granada was
under Muslim influence for a very long time and it was the last stronghold of
the moors when Ferdinand and Izabella reconquered Spain. Due to this the
Moorish influence is very strong in the architecture.
It all
started in Plaza de Santa Ana at the foot of the Alhambra, where the Iglesia de
Santa Ana can be found. This church was originally a mosque called Almanzra but
in 1501 they transformed it into a Catholic place for prayers. Can you see the
three balls on top? You can find these on top of mosques in varied numbers. As
to what they might represent there are many theories. The point here is that in
order to insult the Muslims they didn’t just take the balls off but pushed a
cross on top of them saying that Islam is inferior to Catholicism.
Right next
to the Iglesia there’s a lovely fountain. There are many fountains in the
historic parts of the town as the Muslims were very clean people and had to
wash five times a day and before stepping into the mosques. The water flowing
out is always drinkable and very tasty.
Right next
to the church flows the River Darro. The river begins in the surrounding
mountains where years and years ago there was a gold mine. It is empty of gold
by now but the people of Granada believe that during storms and long rains the
mud that flows down from the mountain could contain little nuggets of gold and
even today you can find some elderly people who sit on the sides of the river
after the rain trying their luck.
It seems
that the builders of the city recycled everything they could put their hands
on. From the gravestones of the Jewish cemetery (we saw examples for that in
Barcelona, too) to those old fashioned wash basins where grandmothers and their
mothers used to wash their clothes. You can find these broken up and embedded
in the streets. Here next to the river there are many with lines carved in
them, these had come from washing basins.
Here’s a
door that’s called the ‘mother-in-law door’. Can you guess, why?
The city of
Granada was very well defended. You can see examples for this in the old city
walls (there were six of them) or in the varied sized steps in the Albayzín. With
the first glimpse it’s not obvious why but when you think about it, the
soldiers, who were wearing full armour and weapons, couldn’t just run up on the
stairs, they actually had to pay attention to where they stepped effectively
slowing them down.
Another part
of the defence was the door itself. As you can see, many houses here have huge
wooden doors that contain a smaller door. They only opened the big ones when
animals or a cart needed to go through, they used the small one for everyday use.
The height of if was such that the person who wanted to go in had to bow and
put his head in first. Providing the perfect opportunity to the person on the
other side to chop their head off.
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