Semana
Santa, or Holy Week is one of the biggest celebrations in Seville. But what happens
exactly during this fiesta? From the
stories and descriptions of people and other pieces of information I’m slowly putting
it together in my head.
It
is basically a penance procession where every brotherhood in Seville slowly
carries their decorated floats (pasos)
with a statue of Virgin Mary and/or Jesus on top from their parish church and
walk to the Cathedral and back. This might not seem like much but if you
consider that Seville has around 60 churches and they all have to do the
procession within a week then you can imagine the importance of the event. And
I haven’t even mentioned the brass bands, the hundreds of Nazarenos who are all wearing the famous pointy hat, the songs, the
candles or the palm leaves that decorate the balconies. I was told there will
be Nazareno children and donkeys
involved, too. All this in a true Andalusian style. Now that’s what I call proper
chaos!
We
spotted the first sign of the fiesta during the January sales. We saw a life
size paper Nazareno in a department
store that advertised its outfits. Obviously I got all excited and dragged Paul
up to the third floor and after desperately looked around to find them I asked
somebody who finally pointed us to the right direction. My eyes lit up when I
saw all the different dresses and accessories.
You
can get the iconic pointy hat made to measure for your head, the templates are
all ready to be tried on.
You
can even get a guide for children with more than 200 stickers inside! I flipped
through one and was really tempted to buy one but Paul gave me an ‘Edit, grow
up!’-look so I slowly put it back on the shelf.
Seems
like you have to buy the shoes, the bag and other small things, too, to look
the part.
A
few days ago we noticed a sign on a balcony that is available for hire (!) for
the event.
In
the centre the shops’ decorations are slowly transforming, following along the theme.
In the windows of the bookshops more and more books appear with titles like ‘My
first Semana Santa’ and the likes. You can build your own paso with the Nazarenos,
too. How cool!
Next
up on the list is this sweet shop. Its decoration consists of cakes shaped as a
paso and white-clad Nazarenos made of bonbons holding thin,
real wax candles!
To
top it all, on the weekend Paul came across a group of people practicing
carrying a paso on one of the squares
in Seville. It wasn’t an actual paso,
they used heavy bricks to imitate the weight. There were 40 costaleros wearing the distinctive paso-bearing headdress. They were quite
an interesting sight as they are all hidden underneath the float which in a big
crowd might seem like it moves by itself!
Bring
on Semana Santa!
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