Gijon is a
coastal city here in Asturias. It has a very special status in the region as it
is a rival of Oviedo. It is actually bigger in size than the latter, more
international and has more festivals. It has a Roman past with many remains,
museums, sculptures, gastronomy. Even though Oviedo is the capital of Asturias
and the center of the governmental activities, Gijon has one thing Oviedo does
not possess: beaches.
San Lorenzo
is the main beach of the city and with its perfect shell shape it is the main
feature of Gijon. As soon as the sun pokes its head out of the cloud the whole
population makes its way down, joined by the rest of Asturias. It is always
very busy and there are many activities going on all the time. Well equipped
with showers, beach guards, many shops, quality seafood restaurants, cafes,
bars and a lovely, long promenade. The recycle bins are especially adorable.
The view of
the beach is enhanced to the left by the Old Town which is called ‘Cimadevilla’
and can easily be accessed from the promenade. Cimadevilla is actually the name
of the fishing port the rest of the town was built around. This is the part of
Gijon you go to visit its huge church and lovely historical buildings.
It’s full of atmospheric restaurants and bars where the young people pour their
own sidre without the help of the waiters (you can read more about sidre here).
Just behind
the Old Town there is a huge green area, the Cerro de Santa Catalina. This park
is placed on a hilltop and offers great views over the beach.
It also has a quirky thing, an abstract statue by Eduardo Chillida called ‘Elogio de Horizonte’ which was quickly renamed by the people of Gijon to ‘The Giant Toilet’.
It also has a quirky thing, an abstract statue by Eduardo Chillida called ‘Elogio de Horizonte’ which was quickly renamed by the people of Gijon to ‘The Giant Toilet’.
Bull
fighting is not banned in Asturias and Gijon has its own bull ring. After watching
the spectacle the bulls are served in the surrounding restaurants as barbecue
meat.
It also has
two real universities and a ‘false’ one, too, and this is what I would like to
show you, the Universidad Laboral.
It is 3km out of the city and the largest building in Spain. It was dreamt up by Franco therefore perfectly illustrates the grandiloquence and megalomania of the era. He wanted to create an orphanage where child miners could be educated. This however has been overruled and they adapted it to be a Technical College for manual professions such as plumbers and hewers. After Franco’s regime the building suddenly became an embarrassment to all and fell into disrepair but luckily Asturias took hold of it in 2001 and restored it. Nowadays it serves as a complex for multiple uses, for events, conferences and cultural exhibitions.
It is 3km out of the city and the largest building in Spain. It was dreamt up by Franco therefore perfectly illustrates the grandiloquence and megalomania of the era. He wanted to create an orphanage where child miners could be educated. This however has been overruled and they adapted it to be a Technical College for manual professions such as plumbers and hewers. After Franco’s regime the building suddenly became an embarrassment to all and fell into disrepair but luckily Asturias took hold of it in 2001 and restored it. Nowadays it serves as a complex for multiple uses, for events, conferences and cultural exhibitions.
The building
was designed to be a city by itself, a kind of Utopia, having its own church,
theatre, town hall and even a farm! It also has a tower where you can go up for
a small fee to enjoy a spectacular view over the grounds and Gijon itself.
We visited
the place on a Sunday afternoon on a day when (without us knowing) it was
actually the day of Asturias. The place was absolutely deserted! In a way it
was great as nobody stood in the way of the photos it however emphasised how
outrageous and at the same time how desolate and hollow this place is. There’s
something very austere in it, Paul even said it feels more like a prison than
an educational place.
We didn’t have a chance to go on a guided tour but I have the feeling that the part of the past that I personally find most interesting, the Franco bit, wouldn’t be mentioned a lot.
We didn’t have a chance to go on a guided tour but I have the feeling that the part of the past that I personally find most interesting, the Franco bit, wouldn’t be mentioned a lot.
It is said
that the rivalry between Oviedo and Gijon is so great that when they finally
decided to build an airport in Asturias, the two towns couldn’t agree which one
should have it. They both had valid reasons, Oviedo is the centre and
capital of Asturias, however Gijon is bigger with more international habitants.
At the end they put the airport between the two, at an equal 80km distance from
both. As a result it takes over 45 minutes to get there by bus and the number
of buses is very limited, especially during late hours.
Why did we
choose to stay in Oviedo? We simply fell in love with it the first time we walked
on its streets. We did give a chance to Gijon and visited it many times but
still, if I had a chance to live in Asturias again, I wouldn’t think twice.
Oviedo simply stole our hearts.
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