Do you know
who the Cloistered nuns are? They are Catholic nuns who live their whole life
in a convent without seeing anybody from the outside. This is a very strict
order and even though they were ‘popular’ in medieval times nowadays there are
only three countries in Europe with convents, Spain, Italy and Poland. Here in
Spain there are only 30 convents left. They don’t have any means of getting financial
help except from what they make with their own hands. The sisters in the
Monasterio de Corpus Christi in Madrid spend their lives praying and making
cookies and biscuits.
I heard
about them first on the free guided tour. We were taken to the door and the
guide explained us who they are, what do they do and the peculiar process of
getting the biscuits. On the next day I packed up my camera and my wallet then
I was off to get some nun-made biccies.
The first
challenge comes in finding the place. You have to start from the Plaza de
Villa. On the left there’s a very narrow little road that has the shape of an
elbow, that’s why it’s called the ‘Elbow Road’, or Calle Codo.
You have to
keep walking until you come to a wooden door on your right.
The buzzer
will be on you right. There are only two options: the top one rings for the
nuns, the bottom for the monks. If you want to give a confession, you ring the
monks, if you want biscuits, you ring the nuns. Simple.
There’s a
camera up in the top left corner. When you press the buzzer, somebody will look
at you through the camera and ask about your purpose.
The conversation I had
was this:
- What would
you like? Sweets?
- Yes.
Even I could
manage that.
Then the
door (well, part of the door) opened and I had to duck to get inside.
I have to
say the whole experience became a bit surreal. There was nobody inside and I
stood there not quite knowing what to do for a while. Then I moved on, turned
left and saw a man who waved at me. He was already in the process of buying
something and was happy to help me, a poor helpless foreigner, out.
There was a
list of sweets on the right with the prices included. I looked over them and
had to realise that my Spanish sweet vocabulary is not up to scratch. Luckily
the man seemed very helpful and told me that from the list only three kinds
were available and he already had those out to show them to me.
In the wall
in front of me there was a kind of wooden ‘revolving window’ or, as the
Americans call it, ‘Lazy Susan’. On the other side of this I could hear a nun
talking rapidly who seemed to get frustrated with not getting any response from
us. The man told him to wait as there’s another customer. Then a third person
arrived! We had to show her the available biscuits, too, and the poor nun on
the other side really didn’t understand what’s going on. You have to
understand, they are not allowed any contact with the outsiders. She gave us
three boxes of biscuits and nothing really stopped us from just walking out
with them without paying!
In the end I
chose almond biscuits and put the box and the money in the window then pushed
it around. After a minute the box came back with my change. I finally had my
first ever nun-made biscuits!!
The heated
conversation was still going on when I left, the nun’s voice getting more and
more frustrated. I thanked the man for helping me out and left. I’m not sure
how well would’ve I fared all by myself.
Here’s the
box of biscuits! As soon as I got home we opened it and tried one. They were
delicious!
I feel I was
quite lucky in my quest as even though that there were three of us there in a
short time frame to buy the products, people are not always so fortunate. Some
people said that when they turned up they were told that the previous day
nobody bought anything so that day they couldn’t buy the ingredients for making
any more biscuits.
I am very
happy that the free tours include this stop in their itinerary as this way more
people know about the nuns and more of them buy from them. If you’re in Madrid,
take the time to visit the convent as the experience is unique and the result
is quite scrumptious.
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